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German Precision, Japanese Blade Design, and Professional Culinary QualityApr 10, 2012
By Carl May
Many chefs and culinary students use Messermeister Meridian Elite knives as well as the other lines from the same maker. Messermeister's reps are in close contact with restaurants and culinary schools nation-wide. The prices are competitive, the steel is superb, and the design is, well, uh, cutting edge. It is not normally sold to the public, except online. Cutlery and More, online, carries it, also in open stock, and sets may be better priced than here. See the other online cutlery sites as well. My set of Messermeister blades actually outperforms my older Wusthof Classic knives, particularly the chef's knife. My analysis of the Messermeister Meridian Elite line is below.
PROS:
*HOT DROP HAMMER FORGED. Stubbornly refusing to change to cheaper, lower-quality methods such as stamping, these knives are still hot drop hammer forged, fully forged blades. The metal used is a fine quality carbon stainless steel alloy common to most top tier German knives such as Wusthof Trident, Henckels, and F. Dick.
*THE CHEF'S KNIFE SLICES LIKE A THIN RAZOR, AND DOES NOT CHOP LIKE AN AX WITH A WEDGED BLADE. This is an exaggeration, but you get the idea. The Chef's Knife edge angle is about 15 degrees, in the Japanese style, rather than the standard German 20 degree angle. It also makes for a lighter, more agile knife. Even more important, there is less metal to get in the way of a cut. Rather than slicing with a thicker wedge, the thinner blade slices with far less resistance and less effort for greater precision and less fatigue.
*FULL TANG, RIVETED HANDLE THAT CHEFS PREFER. The handle is of commercial quality and strength, full-tanged and securely triple riveted in the traditional style preferred by most chefs because of its strength and universally comfortable grip, with sanitary POM synthetic scales (what the handle itself is made of).
*UNIQUE ROUNDED, POLISHED SPINE FOR COMFORT AND INJURY PREVENTION. The back, or spine of the blade is subtly rounded on the corners for greater ergonomic comfort when using the index-finger-and-thumb "pinch-grip over the bolster" favored by chefs; it does not "cut" into the thumb and forefinger when gripping that causes irritation, annoyance, and discomfort. Additionally, this rounded spine provides more comfort when using the guiding hand to press down on the fore-blade for leverage when mincing or chopping with the gripping hand. This important comfort and health detail is rarely found on any knife line today...a major oversight of the past is now properly addressed.
*THE HALF-BOLSTER MAKES SHARPENING AND CUTTING EASIER. The "Half-Bolster" design allows you to use the entire blade length when chopping, slicing, and sharpening. This design keeps the bolster near the handle, not extending down to the cutting edge. A full bolster extends down to meet the cutting edge, and gets in the way of the work. The half-bolster makes the knife more agile and lighter in weight.
*HAND-FINISHED. Each blade and handle is hand-finished to a high standard, by HAND.
*VERY WIDE RANGE OF KNIVES. Santokus, both flexible and stiff fillet and boning knives, hollow edged "Granton" or "kullenschliff" dimpled blades are available in many styles. Messermeister offers various sizes of offset bread knives, salami knives, cleavers, and hard-to-find very long salmon and ham slicers. The selection of blade types is too extensive to list here...go to the Messermeister website.
*AT HOME, EXPECT A LIFETIME OF USE. A chef goes through knives far faster than any home cook. For the rest of us, expect decades of use. It is a cheap investment, a pittance, spread over the years. Will the set to the kids.
CONS:
*COST IS HIGHER THAN AVERAGE BUDGET KNIVES, BUT LESS THAN OTHER QUALITY BLADES. While less money than many major German cutlery manufacturers knives, the cost is more than many consumers are accustomed to.paying. But these quality blades are actually lower in price than most of the Japanese competition. They are a joy to use, and makes cooking preparation enjoyable. You look forward to facing the cutting board, at least I do.
*HARD TO FIND IN STORES. Most people like to handle a knife, to try it on the store cutting board to test the comfort of the handle, the balance or heft, or the rocking action of a chef's knife. That is not often possible because this line is rarely sold to the public. On the other hand, the entire Messermeister Meridian Elite LINE is available online, often at very competitive prices. Make certain the return policy allows returns if not happy. The comfort and performance of most knife shapes and sizes are not that critical, but the chef's knife IS. When you receive your knives test your chef's knife with various cuts, if not happy then return them. Or order the chef's knife first and test it. If you like it then order the other matching knives.
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WHAT KNIVES DO YOU REALLY NEED?
Instead of the set pictured above, in its knife block, I recommend buying open stock so you only buy what you REALLY need, and what you REALLY will use 99% of the time, what most chefs have in their Knife Roll. A minimalist knife set is just three Essential Knives: a chef's knife, and a paring knife, and a scalloped (serrated) bread knife.
A more useful, realistic selection is about double that...consider going with following six blades. Anything more than the six knives listed below will seldom be used, unless you have some very specific needs...and if so, you can always buy that needed blade at the start, or at a later time as the need keeps arising, rather than buy a large quiver of knives, most of which just sit there year after year, seldom, if ever, being needed or used. Buying only the knives you need, is buying smarter: it means you can afford the cost of a few high quality, durable, and super performing knives.
THE THREE ESSENTIAL KNIVES
1) 10" STEALTH CHEF'S KNIFE: The Stealth model has a 15 degree edge, not 20 degrees, cutting precisely and easily. An 8" Chef's Knife is a bit short for a pile of veggies; most chefs use a 9"-12" blade. Jacques Pepin urges a 10" blade for home use even if you are short in stature or have a small hand; you soon become accustomed to it...never go smaller than 9" if you only have one chef's knife (Messermeister makes a good 9" model, not a Stealth one, however, if you insist on a shorter blade). Do not buy the Granton or "Kullenschliff" blade model...the plain edge lasts longer.
2) 3.5" SPEAR POINT PARING KNIFE: for peeling, slicing, garnishing, eyeing, and stemming of veggies/fruits. After with your Chef's Knife, the Paring Knife is the next most useful knife in your knife quiver.
3) 9" SCALLOPED (Serrated) BREAD KNIFE: or consider the very popular 8"-9" Offset Bread/Deli Knife serrated model (for good clearance of the knuckles from the cutting board). Longer blades slice ALL sizes of bread, boules, and "country" loaves. If you do not buy very large bread loaves, then an 8" blade is fine, otherwise 9"-10" is the best blade length. A Bread Knife can be used for meat and poultry slicing, but the serrated edge cam sometimes tear the flesh when cutting against the grain. Slicing and Carving Knives work much better.
THE NEXT THREE MOST IMPORTANT KNIVES
4) 6" FLEXIBLE BONING KNIFE: for separating the bone from the meat, AND for filleting fish; separate boning and fillet knives are then not needed. This model has a dual-purpose flex. If you do a great deal of meat/poultry boning, or filleting of fish, buy separate knives for each function, such as a 5"-6" Stiff Boning Knife, and a 7" Flexible Fillet Knife. Most people can get by with this single blade unless you often fillet fish requiring a a true Fillet Knife.
5) 8"-10" CARVING KNIFE: spear point with Granton or Kullenschliff dimpled edge; a bit more flexible blade than the the Round Tip Slicer. For deft carving, especially for those of you that eat poultry very often; for turkey, chicken, duck, large fruits, and all-around general slicing buy the 8" size.
Some chefs use an 8" Carving Knife for small-to-medium boning and slicing, and as a large Utility Knife (most Utility/Sandwich Knives are 4"-6"). If you intend to buy no other slicing knives than this knife, opting not to buy the 10" Round Tip Kullenschliff Slicer detailed below, consider buying a longer 10" Carving Knife (longer blades make it easier to slice more thinly, but if buying both, buy the 8" Carving Knife and a 10" Round Tip Slicer).
6) 5" SCALLOPED (Serrated) UTILITY KNIFE: serrated edge with a sheep's foot or pointed tip or perhaps the fork-tipped, scalloped tomato knife. This smaller, precise serrated blade is superior to all others for tomatoes, fruit/citrus, sandwiches, rolls, and smaller, precision slicing jobs where a slippery, tough outer surface, or hard crust must be dealt with. Of course, it also cuts softer surfaces too, and can do anything a plain edged Utility Knife can do. This knife is also popular with bartenders when making drinks needing citrus slices. The Scalloped Utility Knife is an always useful, often overlooked blade.
SPECIALIZED or OPTIONAL KNIVES
* 10" ROUND TIP KULLENSCHLIFF SLICER: Granton or Kullenschliff dimpled edge; a more stiff blade for slicing larger beef and ham roasts. Many chefs use it also for poultry; to slice chicken or turkey breasts and de-boned thighs instead of using a slightly more flexible "Carving Knife." This knife is often used in delicatessens and sandwich shops to thinly slice large cuts of meat.
The Slicer can also be used for salmon, but salmon lovers will eventually buy a specialized, long and very flexible, thinner bladed Granton Fillet/Salmon Slicer. Some home cooks prefer an 8"-10" Carving Knife, for versatility, instead of a 10" Round Tip Slicer. Research this for yourself if you have not yet decided. Longer blades make slicing thinly easier, shorter ones cut more precisely to match small meats, poultry, or large fruits and veggies.
* 7" FLEXIBLE FILLET KNIFE: a very flexible blade just for specialized for filleting fish, and even carpaccio. If you eat fish very often it is best to buy whole fish, so you can gauge freshness better than with packaged fillets, and sometimes at a better price. So you need to fillet the fish yourself. If you opt for this blade, then instead of the 6" Flexible Boning Knife listed above (used for both filleting AND boning), use the specialized 7" Fillet Knife for filleting, and go with a more specialized 5"-6" Stiff Boning Knife just for the boning jobs.
* 7" SANTOKU KNIFE: hollow edge (Granton or "Kullenschliff"). This blade often is used instead of a smaller 8" Chef's Knife. Use it for precision chopping and slicing; for smaller chopping smaller amounts of veggies and for exacting slicing jobs.
* 6"-7" MEAT CLEAVER: this specialized design is needed if you often do small butchering, breaking down a large cut of meat(fabrication). It will chop through bone, gristle, and ribs that would damage other knives.
ESSENTIAL KNIFE ACCESSORIES
1) 10" STEEL: absolutely required to keep your knife edge honed as sharp as possible. Always hone with your steel prior to cutting--get in the habit of doing so.
2) KNIFE SHARPENER: buy the best you can afford. Arkansas stones are good...it pays to research the new sharpeners and knife sharpening websites. If you use hand held sharpeners it is critical that you ensure that the sharpener angle matches that of your knives or you will damage your blades.
3) CARVING FORK: required to hold meat, poultry, or large fish securely while carving and slicing.
4) KITCHEN SHEARS: as you know, Kitchen Shears are endlessly useful for string, packaging, and for cutting some foods. If you cut up whole poultry very often then Poultry Shears should also be bought to make cutting easier and faster than with a knife, in many cases.
THE JAPANESE KITCHEN KNIFE SURGE
One can get carried away with Japanese-made knives--a more expensive alternative. Global, Shun and MAC knives, somewhat better known, are becoming popular as well, but knife aficionados, chefs among them, are looking at lower profile, quality, expensive Japanese knives few of us have heard of such as Nenox, Hattori, Masamoto, Misono, Glestain, Ryusen, Shiki, Kanetsugu, Watanabe, Suisin Inox, and Aritsugu...source some of them at japanesechefsknives, and check out the ChefTalk forum.
My take on this? For home use, the Messermeister is the perfect compromise in price and quality...the best of both worlds, the sweet spot. The Messermeister Distributor's customer service here in the States is personal and excellent...no communication barriers.
I hope this helps you in your knife shopping. The Meridian knives are really a find, in my opinion.
Carl May
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